Kefalonia Day Three

 Today started like all other days. The bullhorns in the square were bumping out an odd combination of holiday hits from around the world (FΕλίζ Νανιδαδ anyone?) and Europop bangers (Supernature at 10 am was a little unpleasant). I slept through the hotel’s breakfast so I walked to the water for an Oceanside pastry and a Greek coffee. Greek coffee is a speciality available here from most shops. You’ll know they can make it because you’ll see a small camping stove behind the counter. Water is brought to a boil on the stove with finely ground coffee and sugar. Somehow the extraction happens and enough of the grounds sink to the bottom to make the whole thing drinkable. Just be sure to go slow and dodge the sludge at the bottom. Take note espresso maniacs. Needing a pressure vessel and a frother to wake up in the morning should be in the DSM. Seek help.

As I sipped, I chose a location for today’s adventure. I’ve run out of tourist sites and all the vistas and villages are blending together. There’s a town about an hour away that gets ferry service in the summer. Sure, fine, that’ll do. The scooter I’ve rented had a phone holder, so I was able to take a time lapse to show a bit of what motoring here is like.

You’ll see I was at an empty marina at the end of the footage. I stood there for a moment contemplating my day. The plan was to keep scootering on for another thirty minutes or so. I really didn’t want to. Life without a car has made me realize how little I actually enjoy driving, I can tolerate it periodically or even enjoy it now and again if the roads are empty but frankly it’s becoming less and less for me. I’ll happily take a bus that takes twice as long if it means I get to sleep or absentmindedly stare out the window. At this point I realized I was losing the local way. I immediately turned back to Argostoli to do… nothing. I parked the bike, bought a sparkling lemonade, and sat my the water reading my book. Incredible. 

Soon enough it was time for my afternoon nap which was made difficult because a sound check was going on in the square. Luckily, the local campus of the Ionian University had a music school and the talent was, talented. The quality of their set was good, although I'm not sure what Play That Funky Music has to do with Christmas. Then again, not my holiday and I’ve heard Greek Orthodoxy brings interesting customs. Perhaps this is a Venetian tradition handed over.

A friend by my window

After my nap I went for a coffee at my usual cafe. Since there was a sound check that means there was likely going to be an event later. The barista clarified that tonight was the island’s Christmas tree lighting. People started to hold cafe tables at the restaurant hours in advance of the start at 6:30. Perfect for me, my room overlooks the square and I could finally enjoy the dividends of the din. Din dividends? Dinvidends?

Holy Hell what a show. Big stage with lights. Forty foot tree. A fireworks show. Santa in a bucket truck putting the star on top and turning the thing on. It occurred to me that this place has about as many people living here as Cumberland did. I couldn’t imagine them throwing a party like this.

Good show lads

I went into the crowd to survey the scene. Joyous all around. And to all a good night.